Mountain Hiking

by Harold Sears

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Sandbeach Lake & Mt. Orton — Wild Surroundings In Wild Basin

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When you look at the little trail map that you’re given at the national park entrance station, the distances look manageable and the contours look smooth. Even on my USGS topographic map, the contour lines advanced steadily and didn’t look too close together. I thought I would take the somewhat long, but well-traveled trail to Sandbeach Lake and then make my own way up the much shorter distance to the top of Mt. Orton, just south of and poised for perfect views of the towering Mt. Meeker and Longs Peak. There is no trail up Mt. Orton, but the maps suggest a walk through high open woodland and then up alpine tundra slopes. 

The trail begins at the Wild Basin entrance station in RMNP. At first, there is a steep ascent by switchback up the rocky and dusty north valley wall. There are pines and aspens with dancing leaves, fallen branches and trunks with corkscrew-twisted roots, lichen-covered boulders, and long views to the south and high Meadow Mt. at the SE edge of the park. 

Once I attained this initial elevation, I continued more gradually up and steadily west, high above N. St. Vrain Creek. In the bottom of the valley, the creek shone, and Copeland Lake and many lesser ponds and expansions lay blue under a blue sky. 

I passed a trail intersection: 3.2 miles to Meeker Park. I heard sandy foot falls behind me and stepped to the side. A hiker passed — “Thank you.” He strode forward and then broke into a trot up a slope and around a curve in the trail. I’m afraid I cannot do that. 

About two miles in, I came alongside Campers Creek, a gurgly, mossy, intimate little flow. There was a one-foot waterfall into a three-foot pool and, along the bank, soft ecru toadstools on a carpet of moss. 

A little later, I crossed Hunters Creek, a broader, cobbly stream with a no-fishing warning. The threatened Greenback cutthroat trout has been reintroduced here, and, sure enough, just upstream of the bridge, I saw one. The stream parted around a five-foot boulder and poured into a deep pool. At the downstream edge of the pool, the fish hovered, periodically bobbed to the surface, swerved to one side and under a branch, then left that shelter and breached the surface. I could see no prey, but it was about noon and therefore lunchtime. Downstream, another trout sat in an eddy, among stones on one side and drifts of organic debris on the other. The water was only a few inches deep, and the fish were only a few inches long, but it looked as though a population was establishing itself. 

I climbed a final ridge, walked through open forest, and emerged onto the shores of the aptly named Sandbeach Lake. I found a shady spot with a big log as a backrest. To the south and in the distance rose St. Vrain and Copeland Mts. I settled down to a sandwich and a tomato, fresh from the garden.

 

Mt. Orton was not visible from the beach, but the map assured me that the peak was close, right over there. This is one of my problems. I come upon an intersection or reach a destination, and I wonder what is down that way, around that corner, or up that slope. So I took a heading to the west and a little north and started up through trackless fir forest. I maybe didn’t have to go this way, because there were lots of social trails that seemed to wander around the lake and even up the slopes, but I have been lured off my track many a time by human and animal trails that had no intention of going my way. I climbed west-northwest by compass.

 

The trees were close and intertwined. I climbed over and under fallen logs. Forest gave way to fields of car- and shed-size boulders. I climbed into trees again and the hot smell of fir. I’d strayed a little too far to the north, so I adjusted and clambered among more rocks. To the north rose the imposing mass of Mt. Meeker, the distinctive flat top of Longs Peak, and the steep, sharp pyramid of Pagoda Mt. I reached the tree line and hollows full of low, almost impenetrable krummholz.

Mt. Orton in the distance

Pagoda Mt. and Longs Peak

There were boulder fields, talus slopes, and stretches of green tundra. About 3:30 p.m., I reached the final rock tower and climbed to the top. There was a pretty hogback ridge off to the northwest, reaching over to Chiefs Head Peak. Pagoda, Longs, and Meeker still dominated the northern skyline. 

From the top of Mt. Orton, looking northwest toward Chiefs Head. The contours in the high point at the upper right look like a fact in repose (from some vantage points).

An evening view to the northwest from the highway at the Allenspark fire station. The chief is lying on his back. At the left is his face, looking upward. To the right, is the rise of his belly (Mt. Meeker).

(click for a larger view)

Sandbeach Lake is a satisfying destination, but just a little more heroic or maybe masochistic motivation can bring still more thrilling rewards.



Originally published in the
Daily Camera, p 8C, 10/5/2007.


Getting There

Take route 36 north from Boulder to Lyons, and route 7 west and north through Allenspark.  Cross the North St. Vrain Creek at mile marker 13, and turn left onto CR 84 W.  Pass the Wild Basin Lodge on the left and turn right into the park entrance station and trailhead parking lot, 0.4 mi. from the highway.

Sandbeach Lake is about 4 mi., one way; Mt. Orton about 1.1 mi. farther. The trailhead is about 8,400 ft., Sandbeach Lake 10,283 ft., and Mt. Orton 11,724 ft., so the trip is moderate to strenuous, depending on your destination. No pets are allowed on national park trails. A good trail map for all of Boulder County is available from BATCO.

Warning—If this hike sounds like something you would like to do yourself, please use good judgment and prepare yourself according to your skills, your interests, and the season. What was fun for me under one set of circumstances might not be fun or even safe for another under other circumstances. Do not consider my description to be an unqualified recommendation.

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© Harold and Meredith Sears, Boulder, CO, harold@mountainhike.net. All rights reserved.




This page was last modified on 8/2/08